Fall 2026 - Montana, North Dakota, South Dakota, Wyoming, 9.8.2026 - 10.5.2026, Part 5: Badlands National Park
So far on this fall trip we had been to five places we had never seen before (American Prairie, Makoshika State Park, Terry Badlands, and the north and south units of Theodore Roosevelt National Park). On the morning of September 18th, we were headed back to a place that not only we have been to but has become one of my all time favorite national parks - Badlands National Park.
It was about a six hour drive from Theodore Rosevelt National Park to Badlands National Park. We went through Sturgis and stopped in Wall for groceries along the way. We stayed at the White River/Badlands KOA which had full hookups. This was the same place we had stayed with Bob and Dana on our first big RV trip back in 2020.
On that 2020 trip we were only there for two nights. We did get a lot accomplished, doing the Door Trail, The Window Trail, a good drive around the Badlands Loop and some really nice photo sessions in some wonderful light. I even got to go on a long hike on the Medicine Root Loop at sunrise which was a great hike. That small sampling of the park blew me away and I had been chomping at the bit to go back for more ever since.
The weather forecasts for the three days we would be here looked bad. Lots of rain and wind was predicted. There was certainly an abundance of dark clouds hovering, but it wasn’t raining so we headed up to the visitor center because if you ask Bridgit, shopping is next to Godliness or something like that.
By now it was mid-afternoon and I was extremely pleased to see scattered sunshine! The sun would drift in and out of dark storm clouds and the light was actually fantastic! We planned to spend this leg of the trip with our friends Mike and Sandy from Steamboat. They were already out on a hike and I just wanted to take photos so while they hiked the Fossil Trail, we just drove around taking photos. I mostly shot between the visitor center and the incredible Norbeck Pass. We drove as far as the White River Overlook but I had gotten some great shots from there in 2020 so we turned around and made our way to the Cliff Shelf trailhead. Mike and Sandy met up with us there and waited while I tried to capture the unbelievable light on the pinnacles to the east.
Badlands National Park
Badlands National Park
Badlands National Park
Badlands National Park
Badlands National Park
Badlands National Park
Badlands National Park
Badlands National Park
Badlands National Park
From there we all drove up towards the north entrance to Big Badlands Overlook. The clouds were getting thicker and I wanted to wait to see if the sun would emerge again. Mike and Sandy aren’t the stand around types so they took off to do the Door Trail and Window Trail. It looked like the clouds weren’t going anywhere so we finally took off to go back to camp for dinner. Of course right when we got back I could see the sun again and regretted leaving too soon. Still, I never expected lighting conditions to be as fantastic as they were so I felt very grateful for what I got.
Big Badlands Overlook
The next day called for heavy cloud cover and rain in the afternoon. Hoping against hope, Bridgit and I got up before dawn and hiked out the Door Trail. We had been here before but not for sunrise which I knew could be phenomenal. However, on this morning it just wasn’t to be. Thick clouds left no room for sunlight and even the clouds had no color to them. We ended up waiting around until seven-thirty and then drove over to Mike and Sandy’s campsite at Cedar Pass Campground which is right by the visitor center. After blueberry pancakes we all were ready for a hike. It was still pleasantly warm so we drove out the Badlands Loop past Yellow Mounds to the Conata Basin Road. A half mile down that road we came to a turnoff to the Conata Basin Picnic Area where we parked. Our plan for the day was to hike out to a place called Deer Haven. This is a popular destination for backpackers. As far as I know, there isn’t any water there so you would have to pack in any water.
We started hiking just before ten. The first couple of miles were totally flat as the trail crossed grasslands. To our right was a long wall of badland formations and the trail was maybe a quarter mile out from the wall. The further we hiked, the more jagged and impressive the pinnacles got. Much to my amazement, the sun even began to make an appearance and started lighting up the highest and most jagged pinnacles. I couldn’t have asked for better lighting conditions.
We passed by a lone bison and after about two and a half miles we came to a break in the wall. Rounding a corner we were now facing north. The grasslands were still flat but far up ahead another wall of pinnacles rose up like a castle wall on the horizon. About halfway up between the grassy floor and the pinnacles was a shelf covered with juniper trees. This was Deer Haven.
Along the trail to Deer Haven
Along the trail to Deer Haven
Rounding the corner to our first view of Deer Haven
Deer Haven is the shelf with the juniper trees
We were super impressed with the magnificence of the line of pinnacles above Deer Haven. I was hoping that we could at least get up into Deer Haven and perhaps find a spot with a good closeup view of these pinnacles. I ended up getting way more than I had even hoped for! Shortly before the end of the flat stretch, Sandy spotted about five desert bighorn. They scampered up a rock face and watched us from above before disappearing.
At the head of the draw the climbing began. It became a bit more difficult to follow any trail but we worked our way up some steep dirt and rock through some odd rock formations until we leveled out at the base of the trees. Here we found the trail again and began to follow it towards the pinnacles. After a bit more climbing on the verge of scrambling, Bridgit decided she had reached the end of her comfort zone. The pinnacles were so close now that we had to see if we could get up to them. We found a nice rock outcropping with a great view back down the draw for Bridgit to kick back and Mike, Sandy and I continued. Up a steep, loose gravelly gully we quickly topped out on a ridge on the eastern end of the row of pinnacles. It was amazing! Up on top we could easily wander behind the wall of pinnacles. There were all sorts of odd shaped rocks, hoodoos and pinnacles sticking up everywhere. You could easily spend and entire day just wandering the full length of the wall of pinnacles above Deer Haven. What a cool place!
Above Deer Haven
Above Deer Haven
Above Deer Haven
Above Deer Haven
Above Deer Haven
Above Deer Haven
Above Deer Haven
After a great time of wandering around among the pinnacles above Deer Have we made our way back to Bridgit’s perch and had lunch. Then we descended back down to the draw and hiked what seemed a long way back to the trailhead. The hike ended up being 6.2 miles and we only saw a couple of other parties the entire hike. We had great light the whole way up but things got darker and the light became flat on our return hike.
Team Deer Haven
Sandy making her way back down to the draw
Since we were so close, we turned back onto the Badlands Loop and went further west only about a half mile to a wonderful pullout. Many people only go as far as Yellow Mounds to see the multi-colored rock but this pullout has much more to offer. The diversity and color in Badlands National Park is phenomenal!
Beyond Yellow Mounds
Beyond Yellow Mounds
Beyond Yellow Mounds
Beyond Yellow Mounds
Beyond Yellow Mounds
It started raining that night and really dumped off and on the entire next day. Sandy and Mike bailed early and headed back to Steamboat. Bridgit and I drove the Badlands Loop including the Sage Creek Road, seeing bighorn, pronghorn and bison along the way. Despite getting rained out on our last day, I was thrilled with the day and a half we had before the rain really kicked in. There is so much more I’d like to do in this park that it is likely we will try for a third visit some time in the future. I think perhaps I’d like to go in the late spring when all the grasses are super green. Badlands allows you to wander wherever you want and there is no requirements to stay on an established trail. This opens up a world of possibilities for remote exploration. It truly is a special place.