Fall 2026 - Montana, North Dakota, South Dakota, Wyoming, 9.8.2026 - 10.5.2026, Part 6: Wind Cave National Park, Dubois, Brooks Lake
Our month long trip had reached its halfway point and now we were working our way west in the direction of home. Our next stop was another place that we had never been. We had wanted to go to Wind Cave National Park back in 2020 but due to the pandemic the cave was closed at that time. From Badlands National Park we took the back roads to get there, arriving around ten-thirty. We had a reserved site at Sunrise Ridge Campground which is just outside Hot Springs, South Dakota, with full hookups and only eleven minutes from the park visitor center. Wind Cave has lots of buffalo and we passed by two good sized herds on our way in.
Wind Cave was designated a national park by Teddy Roosevelt in 1903, becoming the sixth national park. It is the third longest cave in North America with about 168 miles of explored passageways and they predict that is less than ten percent of the cave.
There are several different tours to choose from to see the cave. No one is allowed to explore on their own. We had purchased tickets in advance for the 11:30AM Natural Entrance Tour which seemed like the most extensive one to pick from. There were about thirty people on our tour with one guide. This tour involved a total of three hundred stairs and pathways winding down over 2/3 of a mile. At the end we took an elevator back up instead of having to retrace our steps.
Wind Cave is known for having the largest amount of boxwork of any cave system in the world. Boxwork are thin blades of calcite formed into honeycombs. We saw lots of boxwork as we made our way through the cave. For the most part, it felt more like an underground slot canyon than a traditional cave. Having been to several caverns including Carlsbad Caverns, we thought Wind Cave was a bit underwhelming. It was interesting but no where near as spectacular as the other caves we have been to.
Tough conditions for photos
An example of boxwork on the ceiling in Wind Cave
Map of Wind Cave National Park
Following our cave tour we took a scenic drive around the park. We would have liked to have done a hike but recent rains left the trails too muddy. This was actually more rewarding than the cave tour. We love what we call “being on safari” and with almost no other cars on the roads we slowly cruised through the park in a big loop looking for animals. From the visitor center we drove up 385 to 87 and headed north. This first part was through forested hills. Wind Cave National Park borders Custer State Park where we had camped in 2020. It is in the Black Hills of South Dakota and right by Mount Rushmore. Just before entering Custer State Park we turned onto a well maintained dirt road (NP5) and looped back around through Red Valley to our campground. This section opened up into rolling grasslands with broad views. The whole drive was about forty miles. Bridgit spotted and elk and we saw lots of buffalo. Driving down through Red Valley was particularly scenic.
One of many groups of buffalo along our drive
Red Valley along NP5
Had to wait for several buffalo to move off the road
Cool wall mural in Hot Springs
We had only allotted one night to stay at Wind Cave which was perfect. I think more nights would be helpful if you combined a visit there with Custer State Park and Mount Rushmore. Since we had already explored those areas, it was time to move out of South Dakota and into Wyoming.
In the morning we drove about six hours west, leaving South Dakota and crossing into Wyoming. We must have seen hundreds if not a thousand pronghorn on our way to our next stop. Bridgit and I agree they are one of the most beautiful animals with their white rumps, tan and white coats and pointy antlers.
We made it to Dubois around three. We had stayed here before. On our previous stay we had not only visited the amazing military vehicle museum (highly recommend!) but had done a wonderful hike up in an area near Brooks Lake to Bonneville Pass. Our plan for this trip was to do another different hike in that same area.
On our arrival day we drove to the end of town and up to the Dubois Badlands Overlook (can you tell we like badlands?). The light was pretty nice and it is always a great view from up there.
The Dubois Badlands
Dubois Badlands
Dubois Badlands
Dubois Badlands
The next day our plan was to drive about forty minutes up to Brooks Lake and hike a 5.8 mile loop from Brooks Lake up and around Lower and Upper Jade Lakes. The entire area around Brooks Lake is just breathtaking. It is less than an hour from the Tetons yet sees only a fraction of the people.
Brooks Lake is on the eastern side of the Continental Divide just forty minutes west of Dubois and fifty minutes east of Moran Junction. Once you turn off Hwy 26 onto Brooks Lake Road it is only a couple of miles to the lake. There is a lodge there and a small campground. The dirt road has a few bumps but I am confident I could drive the Navibahn in there. I would love to camp at the lake someday. The lake itself is in an outstanding setting. On the west side of the lake is a huge long wall of 9,291’ Sublette Peak. To the east is a jagged row of spires called The Pinnacles. The Continental Divide Trail (CDT) runs right along the west edge of Brooks Lake. I once again have to thank my friend Ron for turning me on to this place.
We got to Brooks Lake but clouds completely obscured the peaks so it wasn’t a good day for a hike. The forecast looked much better the following day so we figured we could give it another try early the next morning. Instead we drove a little further west to the Wind River Lake Picnic Area just east of Togwotee Pass. There is a small pretty lake right by the parking lot and it was a nice place for a picnic indeed.
Wind River Lake
It was still pretty early and the weather was clearing closer to Dubois so before we got back to town we turned off onto a road to Union Pass. This road starts out climbing above the Wind River Valley past some houses that I could see myself owning and sitting out on the deck. Leaving the homes behind we climbed further and then left the trees behind for open mountain meadows filled with small tarns. At 9,200’ Union Pass we turned off onto a 4WD jeep road and drove another mile or so to Lake of the Woods. This was a fairly large lake but completely hidden from the main road over Union Pass. The road was pretty rocky and filled with many large puddles from the recent rains. I was terribly concerned I might get a little dirt on my Jeep but we plowed ahead regardless. I think the road actually goes all the way around the other end of the lake and reconnects to the Union Pass Road but it looked a lot muddier up ahead and it would not have been good to get stuck there. We took a nice break here and just soaked up the scenery and solitude.
One of the many tarns near Union Pass
Lake of the Woods
Driving back we had tremendous views across the Wind River Valley to 11,893’ Ramshorn and the Absaroka range. Along the Wind River the leaves were really hitting their peak and I had my fingers crossed that things would be in prime condition when we arrived in the Tetons.
11,893’ Ramshorn
Fall arrives on the Wind River
With a totally clear forecast, we set our sights on being at Brooks Lake for sunrise. We had to depart for the Tetons on this day but since it was only an hour and a half drive we had time in the morning. We got up to the lake just before seven and found a great spot overlooking the lake at another campground called Pinnacles Campground. I set up my tripod and enjoyed watching the changing colors as it slowly became lighter. It was only twenty-seven degrees and a beautiful misty fog wafted over the lake that drifted over the water from north to south. All the bushes had a coat of frost on them. At seven-sixteen the sun’s first rays made it over the top of the Pinnacles and lit up the top of Sublette Peak. We just watched in awed silence as the sunrise unfolded before us.
The golden hour at Brooks Lake
The Pinnacles
Here comes the sun and I say, “It’s alright”
Sunrise at Brooks Lake
The frosty bushes added to the scene
Brooks Lake reflections
Once we finished our sunrise, I was eager to hike the Jade Lake Loop. However, there’s one thing I haven’t mentioned yet. The Brooks Lake area is known to be one of the densest populations of grizzly bears in the lower forty-eight. They make it sound like there is one behind every tree and bush and there just may be. As previously mentioned, we had already done a hike in this area a few years ago. We had our bear spray in hand with the safeties off and fingers on the triggers but we never saw any bears on that hike. But on this day Bridgit just felt way more nervous about hiking almost six miles through grizzly-infested terrain so I didn’t push her to go. After all, what could be worse than having us both get totally ripped to shreds by a grizzly and then hearing “I told you so”!
As compensation for not getting to do the hike, we drove back down to Dubois for chicken-fried steak and eggs at the Cowboy Cafe. We love this restaurant and we love Dubois. In our fantasy talks about where else we might live if opportunities presented themselves, we both agreed Dubois might be a fine choice. But now it was time to pull up stakes and wrap up our vacation with ten glorious days in Grand Teton National Park!
Brooks Lake